8/13/2023 0 Comments Bd atc guide instructions![]() The guide that comes with a device is very unhelpful (pic below), YouTube videos I found on my own skipped that part, and I did not want to ask a partner who has it because I wanted to be able to verify she knows how to properly use it. Good job on engaging in a learning experience. ![]() It could be stupidity, also politely referred to as human error or an appropriate fear of asking because of reaction seen here. I can't think of any reason other than laziness on their parts If I were a betting man, I'd bet that most owners of ATC guides and the numerous similar devices wouldn't know how to use the guide mode (including both belaying and safely lowering). It's normal in endeavours where failure equates with serious consequences to end up with less pleasant discourse.īut maybe failure first, unpleasant discourse later? Why unpleasant discourse during what could be a failure-preventing discussion? Would that kind of reaction discourage questions? I think that's why we are harsh on each other. Much (most?) of these incidents are preventable. From body parts being amputated from freezing, to shattered ankles, to death. The thing about climbing is it's full of unpleasantness. Or, if you do, just belay in normal mode. Don't drag your friends up routes that are way too hard for them in the first place. Just use the Munter.īetter yet, avoid the situation in the first place. Very few people become proficient at lowering from and Auto block since it is an action that is so rarely used. Control the descent with the Munter brake strand Now, with your hand on the brake strand of the Munter, slowly lean back to open the auto block. Then, using the release loop that you asked about, attach a sling and redirect it above and back to your belay loop. ![]() Forget about it.Īttach the brake strand to a Munter on your belay loop. But, can you imagine trying to reliably lower someone from a friction hitch. Of course the friction hitch back up is only for safety in the event of failure. And by the way, that video by the guide kind of sucked. The DMM pivot is probably the best device when it comes to lowering from an auto block mode.īut, one can be easily and safely lower with any auto block device using a simple technique that is not in their manuals. The manufacturers have been slowly trying to improve this flaw without admitting it openly. Your solution will be both harder to feed slack with AND less secure than the clove. Devices like the grigri might feed more easily but usually sacrifice a bit of security of the foolproof clove. And if you are using bodyweight to open the device, your reflex may not be proper to lock the device up quickly. Clove & locker should be your baseline for most simple and foolproof self belay. This is because the difference between fully locked and fully opened is very subtle. ![]() The chance of dropping your partner is fairly high. But, they don't tell you that it is not very easy or reliable and it is nuanced. The instruction manual's only tell you how to do it. Furthermore, the information you got here is far more detailed than the instruction manual's. A common guide mode setup shown below.I'd rather you ask here then go out and try it on your own without any information, and then drop somebody, which has happened too many times. A brake-hand should always be on the rope to ensure the climber is caught in the case of a fall. ATC-Guide & ATC-Alpine Guide Instructions - M10798CATC-GuideIS-WEB.pdf. There is no difference in the functionality of the device. Winter Sale Log in Search Site navigation Cart. During a fall, the climbing rope pinches the slack rope, completely stopping the movement of either rope. When belaying in "guide mode," the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking. When your partner falls or rests, the weight of the climber is held mostly by the anchor and the belay device. Guide mode is helpful if you climb outdoors a lot because it reduces the holding power required from the belayer. This is when you belay directly off the anchor instead of your harness. ![]()
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